Spray Foam Insulation in Pensacola, FL

Spray foam insulation does two jobs at once, and in Pensacola the second job matters as much as the first. Foam goes on as a liquid, swells into every crack and cures in place, so it slows heat and stops air in a single layer. Stopping air is the big win in a city where Wikipedia's climate normals show July nights averaging 75.3F and about 68 inches of rain a year. Outdoor air here is hot and wet much of the year, and every leak lets in both. We spray two kinds of foam, and picking between them is the first decision on every job.

Closed cell vs open cell

Open-cell foam cures soft and spongy. HomeGuide lists it at R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch. It expands a great deal, fills odd-shaped cavities, seals air well and dampens sound, and it costs less per square foot. Water vapor can pass slowly through it, and it can soak up liquid water if a leak reaches it, which is one reason a roof leak under open-cell needs to be fixed fast.

Closed-cell foam cures hard and dense at R-5 to R-7 per inch. At typical thickness it slows vapor and does not soak up water, and it stiffens the surface it bonds to. It costs more per inch but packs more R-value into less space.

Around Pensacola, closed-cell is the usual choice under raised floors, on crawl space walls, on metal buildings and anywhere the foam may see moisture. Open-cell is common on the underside of roof decks in sealed attics, in interior walls and in walls opened up during remodels.

Sealed attics and the ductwork question

In a great many homes around the bay, the air handler and ductwork sit in the attic. On a July afternoon, a vented attic can get far hotter than the outdoor air, and leaky ducts in that space pull in hot, humid air. Spraying foam on the underside of the roof deck and the gable walls turns the attic into a semi-conditioned space, so the ducts work in milder air. Codes allow this when specific conditions are met, and the HVAC system should be checked afterward because the house will behave differently. It is not right for every house; a simple attic with ducts in good shape may be better served by sealing the ceiling and adding blown-in to depth.

What the code says about thickness

OpenEI's IECC climate zone list places Escambia and Santa Rosa counties in Zone 2A. The Insulation Institute's summary of the 2023 Florida Building Code, Energy Conservation lists R-38 for ceilings and R-13 for wood-frame walls in Zone 2 on the prescriptive path. Sealed attic assemblies and other options can follow other paths in the code, so the right foam thickness depends on how the house is being permitted and what the goal is. We size the thickness to a target and put both numbers on the quote.

Walls opened by remodels and storm repairs

Standard foam needs an open cavity. When walls are stripped to the studs, whether for an addition, a kitchen remodel or repairs after a hurricane, it is the easiest time to foam them. Open-cell fills a 2x4 cavity and seals the outlets, plates and window gaps that let humid air in. Closed-cell is the choice where walls may get wet again or where a few inches need to carry a higher R-value. For closed walls that will stay closed, dense-pack blown insulation or an injection foam made for existing cavities are the usual routes, and we explain the trade-offs.

What foam is not for

Foam does not fix a leak. A roof, window or plumbing leak has to be repaired first, or foam will hide water that rots wood out of sight. It should not cover old wiring that needs checking, and it does not belong on the outside of foundation walls below grade in Florida. The Florida Building Commission's termite guidance keeps foam plastic off below-grade foundation walls and calls for a 6-inch gap between exterior foam and the ground so termite activity stays visible.

Getting ready and getting back in

Spraying goes quickly; the prep takes longer. We cover floors and belongings, mask what needs masking and set up ventilation. HomeGuide advises staying out for 24 hours or more while the foam cures, so most families plan a night away for interior work. Once cured, foam does not settle or sag, so the thickness we leave is the thickness you keep.

Tell us what you have noticed: a hot upstairs, sweating ducts, a musty smell, high summer bills. We will look, explain where foam earns its cost and send a written price. Get a free estimate