Cellulose and fiberglass loose fill
Blown-In Insulation in Pensacola, FL
A deep, even blanket over a sealed ceiling, often the lowest-cost way to cool down the rooms below a Pensacola attic.
- Free on-site estimates
- Written quote with foam type, thickness and R-value per area
- Moisture, leaks and termite clearances checked before we spray
The Value Choice for Big Attic Floors
Blown-in insulation is often the smart choice for the biggest surface in a Pensacola house: the open attic floor. Loose-fill cellulose or fiberglass goes in through a hose and settles around joists, wiring and blocking far more evenly than batts. It costs less per square foot than spray foam, and over a properly sealed ceiling it reaches the depth a Zone 2 attic needs. Most of our vented-attic jobs pair the two: foam and caulk at the gaps, then blown-in on top.
How deep it needs to be
The Insulation Institute's summary of the 2023 Florida energy code lists R-38 for ceilings in Zone 2, which includes Escambia and Santa Rosa counties on OpenEI's IECC list. DOE's targets for an existing home in Zone 2 are R-49 to R-60 for a bare attic and R-38 to R-49 added over 3 to 4 inches of old fill. HomeGuide lists blown fiberglass at R-2.2 to R-2.9 per inch and cellulose at R-3.1 to R-3.8 per inch, so getting to R-38 takes somewhere around 10 to 17 inches depending on the product. We set depth markers so you can see what was installed, and the target R-value is on the quote.
Cellulose or fiberglass
Cellulose is made mostly from recycled paper treated against fire and pests. It is denser, holds a bit more R-value per inch and slows air movement through the layer a little more. Fiberglass is lighter, settles less and does not hold water the way cellulose can, which some owners prefer in an attic that has had roof leaks. Both work in our climate. We explain the trade-offs and can price both if you want to compare.
Seal before you blow
Loose fill slows heat but not air. In a Pensacola summer, hot, humid attic air gets pulled down into the house through gaps around lights, pipes, wiring, chases and the hatch whenever the AC runs. Blowing more fill on top does little to stop that. So before we blow anything, we seal those gaps, weatherstrip and insulate the hatch, and put baffles at the soffits so the new layer does not block attic ventilation.
Ducts and the air handler
Many attics here have ducts lying on or just above the ceiling. Burying ducts under loose fill can reduce the heat they pick up, but only if they are sealed and in good condition. Ducts that sweat or leak should be repaired by an HVAC contractor first. We keep a clear path to the air handler and any service points.
Dense-pack for closed walls
For exterior walls that are closed and staying closed, dense-pack cellulose or fiberglass can be blown in through small holes. It is the usual way to add insulation to walls in an older house without tearing out drywall or plaster. We check first for wiring issues, blocking and anything else that would leave voids, and patching the holes is part of the quote.
The FPL rebate
FPL's Northwest Florida ceiling insulation page lists a $220 instant rebate for homes with less than R-8 in the ceiling, done by an FPL-approved participating contractor after a home energy analysis. Blown-in attic work is the kind of job that page describes. Check the current rules with FPL before relying on it.
Send us the approximate size of the house and what is in the attic now. We will look and send a written price. Get a free estimate
What We Blow In
Loose-fill and dense-pack work around Pensacola.
Attic floor cellulose
Recycled-paper fill blown to depth over a sealed ceiling.
Attic floor fiberglass
Lighter loose fill that settles less, often chosen where an attic has had leaks.
Topping up old insulation
New fill added over existing insulation that is dry and clean, after sealing underneath.
Dense-pack walls
Cellulose or fiberglass blown tightly into closed wall cavities through small holes.
Hatch and baffle prep
Insulated hatch covers and soffit baffles so the new layer works as intended.

Published Blown-In Insulation Costs
| Job | Range and source |
|---|---|
| Blown-in, per sq ft | $1.00 to $2.80 (HomeGuide); $1.65 to $3.80 (Fixr) |
| Attic | $900 to $3,600 (HomeGuide); $1,750 to $5,500 for about 1,500 sq ft (Fixr) |
| Exterior walls | $1,900 to $7,800, $1.10 to $3.70 per sq ft (HomeGuide); $2,000 to $4,000 (Fixr) |
| Dense-pack cellulose | $1.60 to $4.20 per sq ft (HomeGuide) |
| Fiberglass / cellulose | $1.65 to $2.60 / $1.75 to $3.80 per sq ft (Fixr) |
| Typical job | $800 to $3,000 (HomeGuide); $3,000 to $7,000 (Fixr) |
HomeGuide (November 2025) and Fixr (August 2025) publish these national ranges. Depth, access, the amount of air sealing and any old insulation that has to come out change the real cost. Our written estimate, given after we look, is what you pay.
How a Blown-In Job Goes
1. Measure
Check current depth and condition, the gaps to seal and the duct layout.
2. Quote
Material, target R-value, depth and price, with sealing listed separately.
3. Seal and prep
Seal the ceiling gaps, fit baffles and insulate the hatch.
4. Blow to depth
Fill evenly to the depth markers across the attic.
5. Walk through
Show you the depth and the sealed areas before we leave.

Why Choose Us for Blown-In Insulation
Sealing included in the plan
We do not just pile fill on top of leaks.
Depth markers
You can check the depth yourself after we leave.
Material choice explained
Cellulose or fiberglass, with the reason in writing.
Blown-In Insulation Questions
Is blown-in or spray foam better for my attic?
For a wide, open attic floor with ducts in good shape, sealing plus blown-in usually gives most of the benefit for less. Foam on the roofline makes more sense when the ducts and air handler are in the attic and you want them inside the envelope.
How many inches of blown-in do I need?
To reach R-38, roughly 10 to 17 inches depending on the product, based on HomeGuide's per-inch figures. DOE recommends more for existing homes in Zone 2.
Can you blow in over my old insulation?
Yes, if it is dry and clean. We usually pull some back to seal the gaps underneath first. Wet, moldy or pest-fouled insulation should come out instead.
Does cellulose hold up in humid attics?
Yes, in a vented attic with a dry roof. It does not handle roof leaks as well as fiberglass, so if your roof has a history of leaks we discuss that before choosing.

Blown-In Insulation Service Areas
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Get a Blown-In Insulation Estimate
Tell us roughly how big the attic is and what is in it now. We will look and send a price.