Frequently Asked Questions

Standard spray foam needs an open wall, so it goes in during remodels, additions or storm repairs when the drywall is off. Closed walls are usually filled with dense-pack blown insulation or an injection foam made for that purpose. We tell you which option fits your walls after we look.

Closed-cell foam, at R-5 to R-7 per inch in HomeGuide's figures, compared with R-3.5 to R-3.7 for open-cell. Higher R per inch is not the only factor, though. Open-cell often makes more sense in a sealed attic roofline, where cost per square foot and sound control matter.

HomeGuide's 2026 guide lists closed-cell at $3.00 to $5.00 per square foot installed, and open-cell at $1.50 to $3.50. Thickness, access and prep change the number, and small jobs often hit a minimum. Your written estimate is the price.

Escambia and Santa Rosa counties are in Climate Zone 2A, where the 2023 Florida energy code's prescriptive path calls for R-38 in ceilings. For existing homes, DOE suggests R-49 to R-60 if the attic is bare, or R-38 to R-49 added over 3 to 4 inches of old insulation.

It can be, as long as it is kept where it belongs. Florida's termite-protection guidance keeps foam plastic off below-grade foundation walls and calls for a 6-inch clearance between exterior foam and the ground. Inside attics and walls, foam is fine, and we leave inspection areas visible.

Often, yes. When the ducts and air handler sit in the attic, foaming the underside of the roof deck brings them inside the conditioned space instead of leaving them in a superheated attic. It is not right for every house, and the HVAC system should be checked afterward, so we walk you through both options.

FPL's Northwest Florida page lists a $220 instant rebate for ceiling insulation in homes with less than R-8, done by an FPL-approved participating contractor. It does not say whether spray foam counts, so confirm the current terms with FPL first.

In most cases, yes. Fiberglass and cellulose that got soaked through a damaged roof lose much of their value, can hold moisture against the ceiling and can grow mold. We remove it, let the framing dry and then insulate again.

For a sealed attic roofline, open-cell is common because it seals air well and costs less per square foot. Closed-cell makes sense where moisture may reach the foam or where space is tight. We name the foam for each area on the quote.

Standard foam cannot, because it expands too fast and needs an open cavity. Closed walls are usually filled with dense-pack blown insulation or an injection foam made for that use.

HomeGuide advises allowing 24 hours or more. For a detached garage or shop, it may not affect the house at all. We confirm timing for your job.

Installed correctly, foam reduces moisture problems by stopping humid air from leaking in. The risks come from covering leaks or wet wood, so we check for those first, and from sealing an attic without checking how the AC handles humidity afterward.

Foam is insulation, not storm protection, and we do not sell it as a hurricane fix. Its job is to insulate and seal. Roof, window and opening protection are separate questions for a roofer or builder.

The 2023 Florida energy code's prescriptive path lists R-38 for ceilings in Zone 2, which includes Escambia and Santa Rosa counties. DOE's recommendation for an existing uninsulated attic in that zone is R-49 to R-60.

It often helps when the ducts and air handler are in the attic, because they then run in milder air. If the attic is simple and the ducts are in good shape, sealing the ceiling and blowing in to depth may cost less. We price both when both fit.

Cold supply ducts in a hot, humid attic collect condensation, especially where the insulation jacket is torn or thin. Sealing the attic or repairing and burying the ducts usually stops it. We flag duct repairs for an HVAC contractor.

No. A radiant barrier reduces radiant heat from the roof but does not replace insulation depth or air sealing. We focus on sealing and insulation and can talk through how a barrier fits.

FPL's Northwest Florida page lists a $220 instant rebate for ceiling insulation in homes currently below R-8, done by an FPL-approved participating contractor. Confirm current terms with FPL.

If the crawl space has ductwork or plumbing, smells musty or the floor framing stays damp, encapsulation usually works better. If it is dry and simple, foam under the subfloor may be enough. We price both.

Fiberglass batts under a raised floor absorb moisture in humid weather, get heavy and drop out of the joists. Closed-cell foam bonded to the subfloor does not have that problem.

It can if done carelessly. We leave inspection strips open at the sill and top of the foundation, keep foam off below-grade foundation walls and talk to you about your termite contract first.

Usually it needs some way to stay dry, either a dehumidifier or a small amount of conditioned air from the HVAC system. We explain what fits your house.

Not until the water is handled. Grading, gutters or drainage come first. Sealing a crawl space that floods only traps the water.

For a wide, open attic floor with ducts in good shape, sealing plus blown-in usually gives most of the benefit for less. Foam on the roofline makes more sense when the ducts and air handler are in the attic and you want them inside the envelope.

To reach R-38, roughly 10 to 17 inches depending on the product, based on HomeGuide's per-inch figures. DOE recommends more for existing homes in Zone 2.

Yes, if it is dry and clean. We usually pull some back to seal the gaps underneath first. Wet, moldy or pest-fouled insulation should come out instead.

Yes, in a vented attic with a dry roof. It does not handle roof leaks as well as fiberglass, so if your roof has a history of leaks we discuss that before choosing.

That is one of the main reasons owners foam steel buildings. Closed-cell on the roof and walls keeps humid air off the metal, so condensation stops forming.

It depends on whether you cool it and how often you use it. A storage building may only need enough to stop condensation; a daily work shop needs more. We set the thickness by use.

Blankets work while the facing stays intact, but in humid air torn facing lets moisture behind them. Foam bonds to the steel and seals the seams, so it holds up better.

Often, yes. Foam in an occupied space usually needs a thermal or ignition barrier, depending on the product and use. We tell you what applies and price it.

Usually, yes. Wet fiberglass loses much of its value and can hold moisture against the ceiling, and wet cellulose clumps and settles. Removing it lets the framing dry before new insulation goes in.

Yes. We vacuum it out, bag it and clean the attic floor. Have entry points sealed by a pest or wildlife company before new insulation goes in.

HomeAdvisor lists $1 to $2 per square foot, with a typical job around $600 to $1,200. Access, contamination and disposal change the number. Our written estimate is the price.

We stop and recommend testing. Some vermiculite contains asbestos and needs an abatement contractor, not an insulation crew.